viernes, 23 de marzo de 2012

Big City Living for a Small Town Girl

Well, it's been a couple of weeks since my last update--sorry about that! I have been so busy adapting to the new life I am living and haven't really had time to breathe! I think the city is starting to rub off on me a little bit--the need to go go go! But I love it. As of now, I am on what I hope to be the first of my many adventures down south. I am on an omnibus to Pinamar--a beach five hours south of Buenos Aires.  Though I am spending only a quick two months in BA, I was already eager to get out and explore the surrounding areas.  Plus, beach season is coming to an end, and I couldn't pass up a chance to journey to one of the Porteno summer hang outs.

So much has happened since I have been in this lovely city. Something that I have noticed--the major changes I never thought I would get used to, I am now very used to. The daily schedule of a Porteno is very different then a regular day in America.  You wake up, leisurely, around nine--I normally stretch this out until ten. Then, you drink some mate or coffee, and maybe eat a piece of pan, or more commonly, a medialuna.  Breakfast is a very undervalued meal.  I find myself craving waffles, bacon, eggs, hash brown, pancakes, oatmeal...but those luxury items don't really exist down here.

Then the day starts. I leave the apartment and take the elevator down to the first floor. This is not an elevator like these ones we are used to in the states.  They have the sliding doors that you have to close, and only fit two people.  As i leave, i say ciao to the portero (the guy that sits at a table "guarding" the building).  School is only a twenty minute walk.  During these twenty minutes the noise of the ciy fills my ears. When I walk to school in Missoula--silence. More bikes than cars pass, the only "busy" street I have to wait to cross is Higgins. In the city, you walk to the door and are instantly in a swarm of people rushing to get to whothehellknows where.  When I walk, I am used to having space. I used to think being on U of M campus around 12, right after class gets out, was hectic.  Having to dodge people/bikers left and right. Here, it is that feeling x 10. people are on a mission.  If you don't lean your shoulder out of the way at the perfect moment, you will end up on the ground. It is almost as if everyone is playing the game chicken. Who is going to move out of the way first? You, me, you, me...my heart starts to race, and it tends to be me that ducks out of the way,

I get back from school around 6pm, hungry. But wait--dinner isn't until 9pm.  I busy myself with homework, and the gym.  They offer the most amazing spin classes I have ever been to. They turn off all of the lights, and put on a blue laser light. Crazy, trashy techno music is blairing out of the speakers.  These people like to party.  By the time dinner roles around I am starving. Rosario, my host mom, makes the most delicious meals! Then, on the days I go out, I wait until 12 or 1am to meet up with friends. And this is only to go out to the bars.  When we're going to a boilche, we leave at 2 or 4 in the morning.  This means I don't get home, and into bed until 7! At first, I thought this was ridiculous--i was falling asleep by 4::30.  Now there, is something about walking back from an amazing night, seeing the sun rise...


Other little difference--the police cars drive with their flashing lights on. at all times. Whenever I am driving in a taxi, I feel like we are getting pulled over. I begin to wonder why the driver doesn't move to the side of the road. I then remember that the police just keep their lights on--why? I have no idea.

Drinking. You can drink anywhere at anytime and not be looked at like you're an alcholic. Glass of wine at 11am--sure! Caipirina with a snack--why not? (this is an amazing brazilian drink that they serve all over here) My friend asked me to get her a beer while we were waiting for this bus. Within the terminal, a man passed me pushing a hotdog cart, which also sold beer.  I politely asked for a can of Quilmes, and after the ten peso exchange, I had th beer in my hand, open for the world to see.  It felt odd. He also asked if I wanted a straw for my beer--no matter what drink, the portenos always use a straw. I returned to my friend with her beer, and she cracked it open. Completly normal.

I went tp the zoo the other day. I cant remember the last time I was at the zoo--back when I lived in Michigan? It was nice in the way that it felt like a little oasis away from the city. Even though it was right in the middle of BA. You looked in the cage, saw an elephant, then looked above at the towering buildings. It was also so sad. Having traveled to Africa two years ago, I was fortunate enough to see most of these aniamls in the wild. free. alive with energy of survival. In the zoo, the animals were fat, had no muscle, lazy, and barely moving.  The look in their eyes, espesially the elephant (my favorit animal!) was so sad.
Here is a sad zebra, waiting to get fed by the tourists
 Sad Elephant, stuck in a cage

Here are the happy, wild Zebras (Masai Mara, Kenya)

Here is a rogue, male elephant--he stormed our car. Nevertheless, he is free to roam wherever he feels (Samburu National Park, Kenya)

As I look out the window of the bus I see stars! These are the first stars I have seen since I left Patagonia--feels refreshing. I do miss the stars.  It is a comforitng feeling knowing i will be in a place without tall buildings, bright lights, and loud noises. Though I love love love BA, I am learning that I am a country gal. I yearn for the stars, and the ability to see horizion, to watch the sunset everynight, and breathe fresh air. The city life is osmething I want to experience, but not place I will settle down in.

I guess it is time to start my first paper.  I have only been putting it off for three days. Analyzing the story El Sur by Borges  A beautiful story to read, and write about in English--the whole spanish part is going to be a bit tricky.  My Spanish has improved immensely. I can't believe how much I have learned, and how quickly my ability to hold a full conversation has appeared. However, i am not quite sure that I have the vocabulary to write a philosophical paper.  Wish my luck!

P.S. the mosquitoes have been attacking me non stop since my arrival to Argentina. With just my luck, I was bit on my eyelid this morning--how you may ask, I have no idea.

Besos,
J.

sábado, 10 de marzo de 2012

Siesta Fiesta

I have now been in Buenos Aires for over a week, and so far so good.  Feeling a bit like a country bumpkin, the city streets, towering buildings, constant ruckus, thousands of people, invisible horizon are a bit foreign to me. Missoula is the biggest "city" I have ever lived in. And to be honest, I was scared.  In preparation of living in BA, I was told that people are mean--that it's a dog eat dog world on the city streets. This is somewhat true.  Unlike Missoula, if cars stopped every time someone wanted to cross the street, the cars would never move.  Though somehow, there is an elegant flow to the city.  The taxis dance around the collectivos (public busses), who miraculously avoid hitting the people waltzing across the street.  Through the chaos, there is serenity that can not be explained.

I have also begun my classes! I am taking a spanish literature class, which seems like it is going to be more like a philosophy class.  On the first day, my professor said, "aqui esta una mesa, pero que es la esencia de la mesa?" (Here is a table, but what is the essence of the table)...this should be a fairly interesting class to decipher in spanish!

Drinking mate and listening to great music while reading Jorge Luis Borges...

Along with school, there are a bajillion other things to do in this city! I went to a futbol game--Boca vs. San Lorenzo.  I have never experienced anything like this before.  In the US, I am not a sports person. I could honestly care less about who wins the Super Bowl, or the Stanley Cup or any other sports award for the matter..but when watching this futbol game, something sparked in me--and I cared.  I wanted San Lorenzo to WIN.  The crowd around me was filled with so much passion towards San Lorenzo you could practically feel the intensity in the air. This is not just a team, this is their lives. Watching the crowd was more interesting then watching the game.  The immense love these people had for their team was inspiring. 



Sitting in the sun and humidity for 6 hours.  This is how they cooled down the crowds--a power hose.  They also do not sell water in the stadium, a health hazard if you ask me.  Someone in our group fainted from heat stroke, and we had to give her coca cola. 


The crazy crazy crowds!

At the end of the game, they rolled down the San Lorenzo flag, it covered an entire section of the stands.

Almost every fan had tattoo's like this--expressing their love for San Lorenzo!

After the killer humidity/sun, the moon decided to show his face

We also went to a theatre, turned book store.  A very beautiful book store--three full stories. We spent a couple of hours wandering through, trying to test our spanish knowledge in the pre-teen section, slowly moving up to best sellers, and ending with an incredible photography book of Hielo (ice).  The tetons were featured three times!

I also went to La Boca, another barrio in Buenos Aires. It was the first port of Buenos Aires, and because of this, the european influence is very strong.  It is also known for its brightly colored buildings, painted this way because of the immigrants who settled along Riachuelo (the river that runs through La Boca) splashed left over paint from the boats onto the metal sidings of their houses.






Overall, I am in love with this city. The people I have met, the late dinners, dancing all night, watching the sun rise...I am even beginning to enjoy the humidity.  I am now off to the Recoleta artisan market--live music, mate, and amazing artisan crafts!

Besos,