Chapter Two: Esquel

After a quick four and a half hour bus ride from Bariloche, we arrived in Esquel.  At first, this town of 36,000 people looks pretty barren.  Little shops, mainly carnecarias (stores that only sell meat), line the street.  Compared to Bariloche, this place is quiet.  However, once I began to wander off of the main streets, I realized the charm this little town emits. Most houses have little gardens in their front lawns; many of them accompanied by dogs.  Dogs run this town. They have owners, however, they roam the streets freely greeting every person that comes their way.  The dogs also assist in controlling the traffic, since there are no streetlights here.  When a dog decides to cross the road, the cars stop.  One would think that without streetlights, there would be accidents.  Yet, somehow the people of Esquel have learned to drive in a manner that would normally be chaotic, and then make it look easy.

Though the town itself is more subdued then other places,  Esquel is a port for adventure.  Skiing, hiking, biking, climbing and running are some of the major activities that Esquel offers.  Fishing, rafting, and kayaking are also a strong point since the Futaleufu is just a bus ride away.

The first day I was here, I took a train ride to an indigenous village that was previously inhabited by the Mapuches.  The train ride was beautiful, giving us amazing views of the landscape.  It looked pretty similar to Missoula! However, a pretty intense discussion followed the trip to the Mapuche village.  With indigenous cultures beginning to disappear, how should we be reacting to activities like the "tourist train?" Does this actually benefit the Mapuche directly, or is it creating a dependence on the tourism industry?  To give a man a fish, you feed him for a day. To teach a man to fish, you feed him for a lifetime.

Argentine Forestry: what appeared to be tree farms were scattered all over the outskirts of Esquel.

On Sunday, we ventured to Trevelin. This is a small town, with about 6,000 inhabitants. It is known for its Welsh influence. Esquel was founded by Welsh immigrants, and was created as an extension of Trevelin. For a Sunday, this town was happening.  There was music being played in the town center, along with different activities going on around the park. I joined in on a volleyball game, which went surprisingly well.  Those of you who have played volleyball with me know that I am not the best volleyball player.

Today, I went to Los Alerces National Park. I was surprised to see how organized the park was.  All the trails were well marked, and the guides were very helpful.  The grounds around the park were extremely well kept--overall a very beautiful place to spend the day.  We hiked up to a beautiful point, then spent some time swimming in el Lago Futalaufquen.

El Lago Futalaufquen

This is the beginnings of what is going to be a really good Chaco tan

My time in Esquel was well spent.  I felt as though I really learned the reasoning behind the immense European influence this country seems to have. And of course, the scenery was breathtaking! So far, any expectations I had about Patagonia have been blown out of proportions.  This place is more incredible then I could have ever imagined, and as always, I am excited to continue on Ruta 40!

Ciao,
J.